Finally the masking tape case is replaced
If you have looked at the ultrawide monitor then you might have seen the masking taped case, well I eventually got around to finishing the 3D printing case.
One of the issues was the size as I only have access to a Phrozen Sonic Mini at the moment and that’s great for miniature models but not so good for large items. So in the end I came up with a multi-part case that has two main lower parts and a middle, along with 2 top parts.
The lower right part houses the a Raspberry Pi 3B and mounts to the right of the screen.
This also has space for a circular power connector (above the Pi), a power bulge for the HDMI (more on that later) and 4 holes for push button switches.
The lower left is much simpler:
This simply covers the left side of the screen along with space for the screen control board.
The middle part:
This joins the two ends together and makes a combined part that will house the screen.
Originally I made these the accurate size, but with SLA resin printing I found that the parts shrank slightly and so I have scaled this slightly to compensate. It was under 2mm over the whole length, but this showed as a gap at the middle originally.
The two top parts are designed to fit in the relevant sides, Right:
These are assembled by tapping M3 threads into the 8 holes in the lower parts and then fit with 8mm cap head screws.
Of course it did need a bit of filler and sanding to make the 3 lower parts fit but on the whole I think it worked.
- A Raspberry Pi 3B, get this wherever you get your supplies
- The Wide screen itself, see the post for the source I used and details of how to set it up.
- A low profile HDMI cable, I used the model A2-C1 10cm from here I would now pick a slightly longer cable as it was a bit tight.
- DC to DC power converters again from Aliexpress, I used 2 of these one for Pi and one for the screen.
- An old 12V 3Amp PSU
Glue the 3 lower parts together, for this I recommend using masking tape to hold them to the screen before gluing as this ensures they are correctly spaced.
I then used filler and sanding to smooth the joint, but this is only needed if you want it to look like one part.
Then tap the 8 holes for the upper parts with an M3 tap.
Tap the 4 holes for the Pi also with an M3 tap.
Dry fit the Pi and adjust the hole to make sure it fits cleanly.
I also opened up the Pi PCB holes a bit with a 3mm drill.
For the Power I took a barrel plug and mounted this in the space above the Pi. Run the 2 wires from this to the 2 12V to 5V converter boards. For the Power to the Display I used an old MicroUSB cable, but for the Pi due to space limitations, I soldered the feed directly to the PCB where the microUSB comes in. Note you could just feed the power to the 40pin header but by going via the microUSB you get the additional protection circuitry.
For reference I mounted the DC converters to the inside of the case using double sided foam tape.
I have since added a 40mm 12V Fan to help cool the Pi as it was running hot. This is simply hot glued to the inside of the upper right part, this is set to blow onto the Pi and then out past the screen controller (which also gets quite warm). Since doing this the Pi runs around 50°C which seems good.
All STLs are available on thingiverse here.
Let me know if this works for you or if you have any questions.
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